Péroupéties 3 : Les ailes de l’enfer – Un voyage avec Peruvian Airlines

Albane et Marc Pérou

Perou biographie

Après un bref intermède sans intérêt sur le chemin de l’Inca (NDLR : absolument pas sans intérêt, surtout à ce prix-là !) et au Machu Picchu, nous voilà de retour à Cusco pour poursuivre notre voyage vers l’Equateur via Piura dans le nord du Pérou.

Manifestement plus avares que sages, nous choisissons Peruvian Airlines pour assurer cette liaison.

Je me permets de citer Wikipédia « Le 18 août 2011, le ministère péruvien des transports suspend Peruvian Airlines pour une durée de 90 jours, pour non-respect des normes de sécurité aérienne. Le 26 août, une partie seulement de la flotte est autorisée à revoler. La compagnie dessert depuis lors à nouveau les villes d’Arequipa, Iquitos et Tacna. La ligne vers Cusco est de nouveau opérationnelle depuis le 23 septembre 2011. ». Engageant….

Au programme : Cusco – Lima en fin de matinée et Lima – Piura en fin d’après-midi.

Pour des raisons d’avarice budgétaires liées à des dates de réservations différentes, nous prenons deux vols séparés.

Carole et moi partons à 11h25, Albane et Marc à 12h10.

Embarquement dans un 737 reconditionné (comme les portables : comprendre qu’il a dû être racheté à une autre compagnie et tuné à la mode de la compagnie, genre, l’avion sort des 80’s) / Décollage / Atterrissage à Lima à l’horaire prévu.

On se pose tranquille dans le hall des arrivées pour attendre patiemment nos amis devant arriver vers 13h20.

Profitant de cet instant de calme et la connexion wifi de l’aéroport, je prends le temps de facetimer ma meuf !!

(Je ne vous détaille pas cette discussion qui revêt un caractère tout à fait privé.)

Toutefois, tout en téléphonant, je fais les 100 pas dans le hall en regardant de temps à autres le tableau d’affichage.

Première fois, le vol est annoncé à l’heure. Je discute encore.

Seconde fois, je vois une arrivée prévue à  14h03. Le vol est annoncé avec un retard de 43 minutes. Quand même bizarre qu’un vol d’1h10 confirmé à 13h20 prenne 43 minutes de retard en 10 minutes… bref, on est au Pérou, si les routes aériennes sont comme les routes nationales, c’est possible !

Troisième fois, … aucun horaire d’annoncé, juste un joli « Delayed ». Hmmm… là ça sent pas bon.

Je raccroche, je consulte mon portable et vois le message de Marc : « Magnifique décollage mais retour à l’aéroport au bout de 5 minutes en raison d’un problème de pressurisation de la cabine. »

Comme si c’était grave la pressurisation de la cabine, on a tous vu des films où le héros résistait à ça (mais aussi certains où les passagers étaient aspirés dehors). Rétrospectivement, s’ils avaient été aspirés au dehors, je me serais pas fait humilier à Cuenca ensuite (Marc, je te hais, les bananes et les mangues aussi.) NDLR : plus d’infos par ici !

Bref, ils sont cloués au sol à Cusco cherchant absolument à avoir des infos sur quand ils pourront partir (je les laisse développer la « prise en charge du passager » dans un chapitre spécifique tellement c’est fantastique !).

Nous voilà donc à Lima, eux à Cusco, sans savoir quand nous pourrons nous retrouver.

Carole et moi pensant à rester à Lima et les attendre, Marc nous enjoignant de continuer le voyage (postérieurement je pense qu’il recherchait un peu d’intimité avec Albane.).

On tue le temps à l’aéroport… on mange… on boit un café…on se fait virer de ce même café…puis 2h avant le vol, sans nouvelles des naufragés du ciel, nous allons enregistrer nos bagages.

15 minutes plus tard, le téléphone vibre. Message de Marc : « On embarque, on nous a dit que l’avion nous attendrait. A tout de suite. » Le cœur plus léger, direction la porte d’embarquement.

Le soleil commence à se coucher sur les pistes. Presque bucolique cette vue.

17h30. Premier appel pour l’embarquement. Sans aucun doute, les agents de l’aéroport de Cusco se sont bien foutus de leurs gueules. L’avion n’attendra jamais. L’espoir fait vivre qu’ils disaient…

Dernière déambulation dans l’aéroport pour trouver un panneau affichant les arrivées.

Cusco : 18h03.

Notre départ étant à 18h, c’est très compromis (comprendre encore « impossible à assurer »).

Embarquement. On s’assoit dans l’avion.

18h03, prêt à décoller. Notre avion s’ébranle vers l’arrière alors qu’un autre vient de parquer juste à côté. Leur avion. Si proches et pourtant si loin.

Décollage / Atterrissage à Piura. Chaleur étouffante. Ça change de la clim’ de l’aéroport et du froid des montagnes !!!

Un petit partage de connexion avec une nana de l’office du tourisme plus tard, nous apprenons qu’ils sont bien à … Lima mais qu’ils ne nous rejoindront que le lendemain matin !!

Et là, c’est le début de la (gentille) galère. Piura n’est pas ce qu’on pourrait appeler une ville touristique. Et qui dit ville non touristique dit quasiment strictement hispanophone. Tout le contraire de Carole qui parle anglais couramment et moi qui ne manie que la langue de Molière (et l’anglais comme une vache espagnole).

Première mission : trouver un hôtel. Consultation du Lonely Planet. Banco. Un hôtel recommandé, cher pour le pays mais bon… on va pas faire les fines bouches.

Deuxième mission : trouver comment aller au dit hôtel. On se fait alpaguer par un taxi (adorable au demeurant) et on lui indique l’adresse dans un espagnol digne de Cervantès !!

Deuxième mission bis : payer tous ces gens car devant quitter le pays le soir même, on était un peu secs niveau liquide… ce qui induit de demander où trouver un distributeur automatique … Avec un soupçon de « pagar » et une dose de montrage de Mastercard, ça marche à peu près.

Quatre automates et 9 essais plus tard (parce que même si tout semble fonctionner, ça marche jamais : écran qui se bloque, carte qui ressort,…), me voilà en possession de quelques soles pour nous sustenter le soir même !!

Après une soirée sans souci à manger local (un burger car ce n’était précisément pas une ville pour les gourmets), petit retour au matin à l’aéroport pour récupérer nos colis qui sont finalement arrivés !

Perou loic 4.png-1
En attente des colis !

Finalement, un mal pour un bien ce retard car cela nous a permis de passer une belle journée à Colan.

Perou loic 4.png-2
Lieu de fréquentation de la jetset péruvienne (Cf. Lonely Planet)…

Haut lieu de la jet set péruvienne selon nos guides (vous noterez la vie grouillante dans la ville hors saison…), au bord du Pacifique avec … du ceviche, de la sangria, des chiens qui font des trucs pas catholiques…

 

Perou loic 4.png-3
Conclusion parfaite…

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