Le rêve : les Iles Galapagos

Albane et Marc Equateur

Il paraît que les meilleurs articles sont écrits à chaud…

Bienvenue aux Galapagos !
Bienvenue aux Galapagos !

Nous voilà donc à l’aéroport de Baltra en train de vous écrire (bon en vrai on y était pour l’écriture fin mai mais maintenant on est en Afrique du Sud). Pour les 2% d’entre vous qui ne savent absolument pas où c’est, c’est situé sur l’île éponyme. Ah, vous ne suivez toujours pas ? Pas de soucis, revenons aux basiques, aux choses qui parlent à tous, c’est l’aéroport principal des îles Galapagos… Oui, oui, les îles Galapagos… Nous venons d’y passer 10 jours, 10 jours fabuleux, mais ça on va y revenir.

Vous êtes jaloux ? Sachez, que ça ne fait que commencer !

C’est donc avec le cœur gros et lourd que nous sommes partis de cet archipel magnifique. Et comme pour mieux enfoncer le couteau dans la plaie, comme un signe de Dieu, comme les égyptiens devant leurs 7 plaies, comme Sarko devant les résultats de la présidentielle de 2012, comme Hollande devant ceux de 2017, comme Louane devant ses chers parents ; un oiseau vient littéralement de me déféquer dessus – oui, oui à l’intérieur de l’aéroport, quel meilleur signe pour nous dire de partir ?

Non, cela ne suffira pas, il en faudra bien plus. Car il faut le dire haut et fort, nous voulons rester ici ! La tristesse que nous ressentons aujourd’hui (surtout Albane) est sans doute une des plus profondes jamais éprouvées. On exagère à peine.

Pourquoi nous direz-vous ? Parce que les Galapagos, portent bien leur nom de paradis sur terre. Le Lonely Planet avait tenté un « les îles Galapagos ce n’est pas les Bahamas, oubliez les plages paradisiaques et tout le tintouin ». Et bien, encore une fois, le Lonely Planet raconte n’importe quoi…

Non seulement les plages sont paradisiaques, des eaux d’un bleu-vert transparent s’échouant sur un sable blanc qui enveloppe vos pieds fragiles, mais en plus les Galapagos c’est aussi et surtout le paradis de la vie marine sauvage, le paradis des otaries, des requins (requin, ça peut vous faire penser à cauchemar mais ceux des Galapagos sont gentils, véridique !), des raies, des oiseaux et tout et tout !

Nous ne nous en remettons toujours pas… :

  • Des animaux par centaines, bizarres et pourtant tellement mignons !
    Iguane de mer
    Iguane de mer

    Des tortues centenaires en âge et en poids (on rentre environ 2 Albanes dans la carapace d’une tortue centenaire, vérifié et approuvé !), des iguanes marins à l’aspect quelque peu vomitif et cramés par le soleil tel une cagole qui a vidé son monoï sur ses jambonneaux, des otaries joueuses et charmeuses, et une quantité incroyable d’oiseaux chelous (pieds bleus, pieds rouges, ballon rouge sous le bec, vous avez le choix !). Nous ne savions plus où donner de la tête…

Petites tortues
Petites tortues

 

  • Des paysages étonnants. Des plages paradisiaques aux contreforts des volcans, en passant par des cratères parmi les plus grands du monde. L’association des coulées de lave et de l’océan crée des environnements vraiment particuliers, dans lesquels l’Homme et les animaux s’épanouissent plutôt bien…
Paysage volcanique
Paysage volcanique

 

En 10 jours nous n’avons visité « que » les 3 principales îles, parmi les nombreux îlots qui composent l’archipel et nous sommes loin d’avoir tout vu ! Chacune des îles nous a réservé son lot de surprises…

 

A San Cristobal, tous les soirs, une colonie d’environ 300 otaries s’échoue et vient faire dodo sur l’une des plages de la ville qui leur est réservée et où les humains sont interdits de séjour. Le spectacle est saisissant et digne d’une maison de retraite… Ca crache, ça tousse, ça se marche dessus, ca crie, ça râle et ça ronfle… Le must c’est d’observer les bébés otaries à la recherche d’une maman otarie qui voudra bien leur prêter un téton ou deux. Les ¾ du temps ils se font refouler et vont chercher ailleurs le tout en criant à la mort avec la voix d’un eunuque qui tente de muer, en courant et en écrasant au passage sans scrupule toute otarie qui se trouverait sur son passage !

Quelques otaries...
Quelques otaries…

 

A Santa Cruz, le port de passagers flotte dans une eau toujours turquoise et transparente où quelques otaries coursent les requins à pointes noires qui envahissent le port, eux-mêmes tentant de pourchasser les pélicans, alors que les raies naviguent tranquillement sans que personne ne les embête…

Petit requin à pointes noires
Petit requin à pointes noires

 

A Isabela, nous avons vécu nos derniers instants Galapagueniens (Copyright) et ils ne nous ont pas laissé en reste… 2 heures avant de prendre notre bateau pour rejoindre l’île principale, nous marchons le long de la côte une dernière fois dans l’eau (turquoise et transparente… ?) jusqu’à une petite crique formée de coulées de lave sous-marines. Et là, un spectacle inattendu… des centaines de fous à pieds bleus (les oiseaux chelous) plongeant à pic dans l’eau pour pêcher alors que d’autres prennent un bain de soleil aux côtés d’iguanes marins, des pélicans qui survolent et dans l’eau, des otaries qui jouent entourées de petits pingouins à la recherche de poissons…  On a même aperçu la petite tête d’une tortue de mer qui cherchait à respirer. Cette scène résume à elle seule notre séjour ici et la diversité de l’endroit, et comme ils disent si bien, la tolérance entre les espèces, la nôtre y compris !

Les fous à pieds bleus
Les fous à pieds bleus

 

Après avoir visité ces 3 îles, le départ n’en est donc que plus difficile… Quelle tristesse pour Albane de quitter ses otaries qu’elle a suivi, traqué, observé H24. Il s’agit là de la bestiole la plus représentée (l’otarie, pas Albane), il y en a partout, sur les plages, dans l’eau, sur les bancs publics, dans la rue, sur les bateaux, elles font partie du paysage. Le seul problème, c’est leur odeur, elles puent, les grosses ! Et pas qu’un peu ! Va savoir pourquoi Albane les adorait tant, à croire que l’odeur lui était familière…  Mais pour que jamais on ne les oublie, Marc a trouvé un moyen imparable : aller embêter une otarie en train de déguster paisiblement son poisson fraichement pêché… résultat : otarie pas contente et quand otarie pas contente, otarie mordre les pieds! Heureusement que le Marc est un vaillant nageur et grâce à un crawl digne de Camille Lacourt il aura réussi à esquiver l’otarie et s’en sortira avec juste une petite morsure !  Enfin, on aura quand même compris qui c’est le patron…

La mangeuse de pied !
La mangeuse de pied !

 

Vous l’aurez compris, nous avons adoré ces îles… On a regardé pour s’installer mais il faut être équatorien depuis 20ans… Raté… ! D’autant que les habitants ne sont pas à plaindre et semblent plutôt riches au vu des prix pratiqués sur l’île ! Nous n’aurons que 2 petits regrets :

1 – La pigeonnerie financière

Amis de l’enfilade, de l’arnaque, de l’esbroufe, bienvenue à la Mecque du plumage de touristes. Le touriste doit payer, cher et constamment…

On paie ses bagages (20 dollars pièce) et le droit de poser les pieds sur l’île. : c’est 100$ par personne… Pour une fois tu regrettes d’être né en France, parce que pour les équatoriens c’est 6$ et les sud-américains 50$ !! Lorsque Albane a posé la question du « pourquoi on paie 15 fois plus que les équatoriens ? », nous nous sommes vu répondre de manière très agacée et fort peu aimable : c’est la loi, c’est comme ça ! Ah…

Enfin, on peut quand même leur dire merci car grâce à ça que nous avons eu une super idée pour réduire la dette française : il suffit de faire payer l’entrée en Corse, la tour Eiffel et le Louvre 15 plus cher aux étrangers, et voilà, renflouage des caisses ! Malinx le lynx ! Bon, j’arrête de m’énerver, ce n’est pas bon pour ma tension !

Ensuite, pour vous balader entre les îles, le moyen « économique » c’est le bateau. Prix fixe : 30 dollars l’aller par personne… MAIS… une fois en approche du port d’arrivée, le bateau s’arrête systématiquement à 100m du port, ce qui vous oblige donc à prendre un bateau taxi pour le rejoindre… et donc repayer !

Enfin, la dernière enfilade se trouve au niveaux des activités :  90% des terres et côtes sont déclarées Parc National. Traduction : vous n’avez le droit d’y entrer qu’avec un guide… Et qui dit guide, dit excursion et dit payer… Et comme les lois de l’offre et de la demande s’appliquent même au paradis et bien c’est cher… très cher !

 

2 – La gastronomie

Faire ses courses sur les îles c’est plus cher qu’au Monoprix d’Opéra ! Le mini-pot de Nutella coûte 10$ !! Vous vous rendez compte ?!!!

Mais nous ne nous laissons pas abattre, revenons à nos années étudiantes et nous mettons tout notre amour dans la préparation de nos petits plats… Malheureusement, le résultat est un plat insipide grâce à des oignons et poivrons payés 1 dollars pièce qui n’ont aucun goût ! Alors oui, on veut bien comprendre que sous couvert de conservation darwinienne de ce paradis sur terre, on ne peut pas importer ce qu’on veut ou faire n’importe quoi avec la nature, mais B…de M… de P… c’est quand même pas compliqué de faire pousser des légumes avec un peu de goût?? Si ? Bon ben, ce sera riz, sauce tomate et… régime !

Je vous entends déjà ricaner à base de « ça ne vous fera pas de mal ! »

 

Résultats

  • On a un peu éclaté le budget mais la beauté de ces îles nous a rapidement fait oublier les tracas financiers et gustatifs
  • Près de 4 000 photos et 200 vidéos prises en 10 jours, mais… « c’est pas grave, c’est Albane qui trie ! »
  • Nous avons une certitude : nous reviendrons quand nous serons grands et riches !!

 

Darwin n'a pas menti, on descend de l'otarie !
Darwin n’a pas menti, on descend de l’otarie !

 

5 246 réponses à “Le rêve : les Iles Galapagos”

  2. Bonjour,

    Quel plaisir de vous lire, un grand merci. Nous sommes une famille de voyageurs composée de 5 personnes avec 3 enfants de 4, 12 et 14 ans. Nous préparons un nouveau trip de quelques mois en Colombie-Pérou et /ou Equateur.
    Et, grosse hésitation // Galapagos au vu des prix! Quels sont vos conseils, vos recos pour dépenser le moins possible, y a y-il une île à privilégier? et à votre avis ne visiter qu’une île nous permettra t-il cette impression de magie dont vous parlez?
    Merci beaucoup pour votre aide et une très belle fin d’année pour vous.
    Alexia et sa petite tribu

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