3 jours dans une yourte mongole

Ou comment nous avons mis de côté nos critères de confort et d’hygiène pendant 3 jours…

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Vue depuis l’entrée de la propriété !

Première expérience de couchsurfing pour nous (comprendre hébergés gratuitement par des hôtes via le site www.couchsurfing.com). Arrivés à l’aube à Ulaan Baator directement depuis le lac Baïkal où nous avons quitté notre famille d’accueil russe, nous errons d’abord dans la ville afin de trouver un réseau wifi et s’assurer que nous sommes bien attendus par Begzuren, notre hôte mongol. C’est bon ! Nous prenons donc le bus et quittons le centre ville d’Ulaan Baator pour nous perdre dans la banlieue et atteindre le quartier de yourtes (Gers camp) voulu. 1ère impression, nous nous demandons où nous avons atterri… Soyons honnête, c’est sale… Les rues servent de décharge géante et nous zigzagons entre les ordures sur la colline pour atteindre la yourte tant espérée (…) !

Première rencontre avec notre hôte, qui, sympathiquement, nous invite à nous installer dans la yourte et nous présente sa femme, ses 3 filles et son fils. Oui oui, nous allons donc vivre à 8 dans une yourte d’a peu près 25m²…

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La nuit, ça donne ça !

A peine installés, nous apprenons que cette famille vit grâce au lait produit par leurs 7 vaches et nous goûtons donc le yaourt, base de leur alimentation (pauvre Albane et heureux Marc) ! Ils en mangent à toutes les sauces, frais, nature ou avec des céréales, ou encore séché sur le toit de la yourte (la sucrerie locale).

Nous passons 3 nuits avec cette famille, et les accompagnons dans leur vie. Nous sommes allés promener les vaches dans la montagne, les avons amenées à la rivière, nous avons fait sécher les bouses de vaches qui servent de combustible pour faire chauffer le poêle central, nous avons appris à lécher notre bol quand on a fini de manger (enfin, que Marc en l’occurrence !) car c’est la marque d’un repas qui fut bon, nous avons jouer au loup (en l’occurrence une version beaucoup plus drôle « jouer au zombie » : les humains doivent survivre à l’attaque non pas des loups mais des zombies, qui doivent marcher comme des zombies ! Je vous laisse imaginer qui a fait le zombie !). Nous avons appris aussi sur l’éducation, car si nous allions dans la montagne promener les vaches, c’est usuellement les deux petites filles de 9 et 10 ans qui s’en occupent toutes seules (une dizaine de vaches adultes, un taureau et 4 veaux). Nous avons été impressionnés, car au fin fond de la Mongolie dans ce logement ne présageant rien de bien luxueux, la fille ainée (13 ans) sait déjà parler 3 langues couramment et donne même des cours d’anglais !

Mais à côté de ca, ne le cachons pas, ces 3 jours n’ont pas été les plus faciles et confortables… du yaourt, du yaourt, du yaourt, pas de douche (juste un seau assorti d’une ouverture pour laisser couler de l’eau à hauteur de hanches), pour seules toilettes un trou de 50 cm de fond dans une planche de bois et le tout dans une atmosphère chaude, humide, étouffante et très poussiéreuse ! Bref, nous avons profité de nos aller-retours dans le centre-ville pour nourrir Albane et faire un brin de toilette !

Si, si, c'est des toilettes !
Si, si, c’est des toilettes !

A côté de ce tableau qui vous ramène milieu du XXème siècle, on trouve au centre de la yourte un écran plat d’1m20 de diagonale avec une connexion internet. Cela sonne bizarre pour nous et on se demande si le progrès n’a pas raté en arrivant en Mongolie quelques étapes nécessaires et à notre avis plus indispensables que l’écran plat… Bref, juste de quoi revoir la définition d’anachronisme !

Nous avons été accueillis avec beaucoup de générosité et de gentillesse. Seul bémol que nous mettons à ces 3 jours, la lubie du père pour une société internationale qui vend des compléments alimentaires sur le modèle de vente pyramidale (Herbalife) et qui semble prendre énormément de place dans le quotidien de cette famille… Si bien qu’on finit par se demander les réelles motivations à accueillir des étrangers dans la yourte : promotion de son réseau de vente ou honnête envie de partager son lieu de vie avec des voyageurs ? 3 jours semblent un peu courts pour répondre vraiment à cette question !

Mongolie.png-1
Endoctriné ? pas encore !

Concernant Oulan-Bator, nous ne nous attarderons pas sur le sujet car il n’y a malheureusement pas grand chose à dire…  C’est certes la capitale du pays, mais elle présente pourtant peu d’intérêt ! Les embouteillages sont pires qu’à Marseille, les bus bondés de mongoles qui comme nous n’avaient pas accès à une douche digne de ce nom, une chaleur et une poussière écrasantes et des pick-pockets plein les rues qui vous donnent envie de faire les gros bras ! Notre seul plaisir a été d’aller au parc Terelj, dans les environs de la capitale !

Au final, on ne regrette absolument pas notre choix d’être allés passer quelques jours là-bas et cette étape marque l’un de nos plus grands souvenirs ! Nous avons passé de super moments avec la famille et les enfants !

Et puis… Albane qui garde les vaches, ça vaut le détour !!!

Promenons-nous avec les vaches !
Promenons-nous avec les vaches !

Il était grand temps de reprendre la route vers Pékin !

Mongolie.png-6
Tic et Tac gardent la yourte !

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